I love the name of this winery – a member of the Banfi family of brands – because it elicits in me personal memories/connections.
I have only had one other selection from this vintner – their Pinot Grigio delle Venezie. At the time, I had just finished reading a biography of the modernist composer John Cage who wrote a piece called “Fontana Mix”, composed while he was living in a flat in Italy.
But the second part of their name – Candida – which can mean white, pale, naive or innocent – reminds me of the satire Candide written by Voltaire and the derivative operetta of the same name with music by Leonard Bernstein and libretto by Lillian Hellman. What memories that word brings to the fore!!
You see, some years ago I had the honor of being a swing for a professional production of the operetta Candide here in my local town. The production began elsewhere and then transferred to my town for a couple of months. When they arrived, they had everyone in tow but their swings – understudies who learn and cover chorus and small roles (usually 5 or 6 roles at a time). They called me to audition, I got the part, and then I had just over 2 weeks to learn music, lines, blocking (placement/movement on stage) and dance. Holy cow! Even more enjoyable was the fact that the dance captain who was supposed to be teaching the swings (2 male, one female) their movement and dance, didn’t actually know the dances. Oh, he knew HIS movement and dance. But he didn’t know OUR movement and dance. So we spent quite a bit of time watching him watch the archival recordings of the show in order to then be able to teach us. Not surprisingly, we all felt a little behind when opening night came around. Eventually I did get to go on for one of the roles, and it went well. Whew!
Winemaker: Fontana Candida
Varietal: White Blend
Appellation: Frascati DOC, Italy
Notes: According to the Fontana Candida website, this Frascati is made from Malvasia Bianca Di Candia, Trebbiano Toscano, and Malvasia del Lazio grapes. At 12.5% alcohol, it was light-bodied and brisk in it’s acidity. Light yellow in the glass, it exhibited plenty of lemon and chrysanthemum in the bouquet. On the tongue I tasted lemon, grass, some citrus zest near the close and a nutty note on the finish. I enjoyed it quite a bit (despite the memories it may have dredged up) and think this wine’s overarching citrus will make it a great companion for many fish and seafood dishes.
* The video trailer above is not from the production in which I participated.